Sasha DiGiulian Achieves First Female Ascent of El Capitan’s Longest Route

American climber Sasha DiGiulian has made history by achieving the first female ascent of El Capitan’s longest route, the Platinum Wall. This remarkable feat took her 23 days to complete, culminating on November 26, 2023, amidst challenging weather conditions.

Sasha DiGiulian’s Historic Ascent of the Platinum Wall

DiGiulian’s adventure began on November 2. She embarked on a continuous climbing effort, which forced her and her partner, Elliot Faber, to endure severe storms that lasted for several weeks. For nine days, they were stuck on a portaledge, facing heavy rains, snow, and strong winds.

Despite these trials, DiGiulian expressed her excitement upon reaching the summit. “It’s the proudest climb of my career. I can’t believe it!” she shared from the top with her fingers swollen from the effort.

The Climb and Its Challenges

The Platinum Wall, established between 2009 and 2017 by Rob ‘Platinum’ Miller and his partners, consists of 39 technical pitches, elevated at 914 meters (3,000 feet). DiGiulian’s ascent made her only the fourth team to complete this demanding route.

• The first free ascent of the route occurred in 2017 by Miller and Swiss climber Roby Rudolph.
• DiGiulian led 27 out of the 40 pitches, overcoming various cruxes including challenging grades up to 5.13c.
• The ascent showcases unique difficulties, including powerful traverses and extensive downclimbs.

Despite persistent rain and freezing conditions, DiGiulian persevered. She and Faber advanced only 60 meters (200 feet) in two weeks during the storms. When conditions improved, she tackled the remaining crux pitches, demonstrating remarkable resilience.

Unique Features of the Platinum Wall

The Platinum Wall deviates from typical El Capitan routes, relying heavily on face climbing rather than crack systems. It possesses the most bolting of any route on El Capitan, providing a distinct challenge even for experienced climbers.

About Sasha DiGiulian: A Trailblazer in Climbing

At 33, Sasha DiGiulian has established herself as a leading figure in the climbing community. Her accolades include:

• Overall Female World Champion title.
• Ten-year undefeated streak in the Pan American Championships.
• First woman to climb the 5.14d route, Pure Imagination, in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge.
• Over 50 5.14 graded routes completed.
• Published memoir titled “Take the Lead: Hanging On, Letting Go, and Conquering Life’s Hardest Climbs” in 2023.

Moreover, DiGiulian is also known for founding Send Bars, an energy bar company based in Boulder, Colorado. Her journey reflects not only her extraordinary climbing achievements but also her resilience and dedication to pushing boundaries in her sport.

Sasha DiGiulian’s ascent of the Platinum Wall is a landmark achievement in climbing, making a significant impact on the climbing community while inspiring future generations of climbers to pursue their dreams.